服装外贸跟单以英语全程操作已经非常常见。在成衣跟单课程授课与学习中，如何将服装英语与跟单知识更好地结合，这是值得思考的。随着服装专业学生英语水平的不断提高，单纯的服装英语教学未能很好地与成衣跟单操作相结合，学生会觉得枯燥无味。另外，对国际化人才的不断需求，使得服装高等院校对双语教学已经提出更高的要求，直接采用英语进行成衣跟单知识的授课已显得很有必要。

  张小良编著的《成衣跟单英语》双语教材主要结合成衣公司的跟单流程，以服装英语为基础，成衣跟单流程为主线，系统地介绍成衣跟单的实践操作，便于服装院校教师进行双语教学，便于广大服装工作者更好地学习与掌握真正适用于企业的服装英语与跟单操作。

张小良编著的《成衣跟单英语》主要结合成衣公司的跟单活动，以服装英语为基础，成衣跟单流程为主线，以英语形式系统地介绍成衣跟单的实践操作。全书共八章，内容包括成衣业概观、成衣跟单介绍、产品开发、原材料跟单、订单准备与成本预算、生产计划跟进、服装品质评估、产品装运与单证处理以及附录的常用服装词汇。

《成衣跟单英语》内容丰富而新颖，可操作性强，方便读者学习成衣跟单知识及服装英语词汇，有利于提高服装专业文章的阅读理解能力和对企业文件资料的译解能力。

《成衣跟单英语》适合高等服装院校服装专业双语教学，也可供服装企业及广大服装爱好者参考使用。

Chapter 1 Overview to Apparel Industry成衣业概观 1

1.1 Introduction简介1

1.2 Briefing on the Apparel Production成衣生产概述2

1.3 Design Process设计过程2

 1.3.1 Product Development产品开发3

 1.3.2 First Pattern头板纸样4

 1.3.3 Garment Sample服装样板4

 1.3.4 Production Pattern生产纸样6

 1.3.5 Product Costing成本预算6

 1.3.6 Production Preparing生产准备7

1.4 Production Process生产过程8

 1.4.1 Cutting Process裁剪过程8

 1.4.2 Sewing Production缝纫制作9

 1.4.3 Pressing Process熨烫过程10

 1.4.4 Finishing and Packing后整理与包装11

1.5 Marketing Process 营销过程11

 1.5.1 Markets and Environment Analysis市场与环境分析12

 1.5.2 Fixing Marketing Target确定营销目标12

 1.5.3 Developing a Marketing Strategy制定市场策略12

 1.5.4 Marketing Mix营销组合13

 1.5.5 Marketing Control市场控制14

Chapter 2 Introduction of Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单介绍 18

2.1 Description of Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单的描述18

 2.1.1 Apparel Merchandising Concept成衣跟单概念18

 2.1.2 Function of Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单作用19

 2.1.3 Range of Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单的范围19

2.2 Business Cycle of Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单的业务周期21

 2.2.1 Anticipation of Apparel Business成衣业务的预测21

 2.2.2 Followup Product Portfolio跟进产品开发22

 2.2.3 Material Sourcing and Procurement原材料搜集与采购23

 2.2.4 Production Organization生产组织23

 2.2.5 Shipment Arrangement船运安排24

 2.2.6 Auxiliary Activities附属业务24

2.3 Apparel Merchandising Organization成衣跟单组织24

 2.3.1 Business Scopes of Apparel Organization成衣公司的业务范围24

 2.3.2 Organization Structure of Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单的组织架构26

2.4 Staffing in Apparel Merchandising成衣跟单的人事关系28

 2.4.1 Major Responsibilities of a Merchandiser跟单员的主要职责28

 2.4.2 Job Description工作描述28

 2.4.3 Training and Development培训与开发30

Chapter 3 Product Development产品开发 32

3.1 Factors of Affecting Product Development影响产品开发的因素32

 3.1.1 Parties Involved in the Product Development产品开发的相关人员32

 3.1.2 Different Seasons不同的季节33

 3.1.3 Fashion Trend时装流行趋势34

 3.1.4 Fashion Trend Adoption时装潮流的采集34

 3.1.5 Product Life Cycle产品生命周期34

 3.1.6 Economy of the World世界经济35

 3.1.7 Culture文化35

 3.1.8 Climate and Geography气候与地理35

 3.1.9 Government Regulation政府法规35

3.2 Requirement of Product Development产品开发的要求36

 3.2.1 Design Task设计任务36

 3.2.2 Development Activities开发活动36

3.3 Specification of Product产品规格表37

 3.3.1 Components of a Specification规格表的组成37

 3.3.2 Case Analyzing of Specification规格表案例分析38

3.4 Sourcing Supplier搜集产品供应商40

 3.4.1 Sourcing Process搜集程序40

 3.4.2 Sourcing Types产品资源的类型41

 3.4.3 Attributes of a Good Supplier优质供应商的特性41

 3.4.4 Suppliers Evaluation供应商的评估42

Chapter 4 Material Merchandising原材料跟单 44

4.1 Textile Fibres纺织纤维44

 4.1.1 Natural Fibres天然纤维44

 4.1.2 Man Made Fibres化学纤维45

4.2 Fabric Types面料种类45

 4.2.1 Woven Fabrics 梭织面料46

 4.2.2 Knitted Fabrics针织面料48

4.3 Garment Accessories服装辅料49

4.4 Followup on Material Purchasing物料采购的跟进50

 4.4.1 Material Purchasing Functions物料采购职能50

 4.4.2 Purchasing Activities采购活动51

 4.4.3 Forecasting Fabric Trend织物趋势预测51

 4.4.4 Responsibilities of Supplier供应商的职责51

 4.4.5 Evaluation of Material Supplier供应商的评估52

 4.4.6 Transaction and Contracting交易与签约53

 4.4.7 Booking for Factory Capacity预订工厂产能54

 4.4.8 Transportation Booking预订运输54

4.5 Ordering Raw Material and Fabric Shipment采购原材料及面料运输55

 4.5.1 Ordering Raw Material订购原材料56

 4.5.2 Ordering Accessories订购辅料56

 4.5.3 Fabric Shipment面料船运57

4.6 Lab Dip Following up and Evaluation小样板跟进与评估58

 4.6.1 Lab Dip Following up小样板跟进58

 4.6.2 Supplier SelfApproving Lab Dip供应商自评小样58

4.7 Piece Goods Quality Control布匹质量控制59

 4.7.1 Piece Goods Inspection Guidelines布匹检查指南59

 4.7.2 Piece Goods Inspection Systems布匹检查系统60

 4.7.3 Acceptance Criteria接受标准61

 4.7.4 Defects Classification疵点分类61

Chapter 5 Order Preparation and Costing订单准备与成本预算 68

5.1 Introduction简介68

5.2 Product Specification产品规格68

 5.2.1 Standard Specification标准规格68

 5.2.2 Order Content订单内容69

5.3 Terms of Trading贸易方式70

5.4 Terms of payment付款方式71

5.5 Garment Costing服装成本估算72

 5.5.1 Fabric Cost面料成本73

 5.5.2 Yarns Cost纱线成本74

 5.5.3 Production Cost生产成本75

 5.5.4 Transportation Charges运输费用75

 5.5.5 Other Operation Costs其他运作成本76

 5.5.6 Analyzing of Costing Document成本估算文件的分析77

Chapter 6 Production Schedule Follow up生产计划跟进 82

6.1 Introduction简介82

6.2 Production Schedule and Process生产计划与程序82

 6.2.1 Production Schedules生产排期82

 6.2.2 Production Follow up Process生产跟单程序84

6.3 Preproduction Sample Approval产前样批复84

 6.3.1 Sample Classification样板分类84

 6.3.2 Approve PP Sample批复产前样85

6.4 Sample Order Analyzing制板单分析86

 6.4.1 TShirt Sample Order T恤制板单86

 6.4.2 Approval Sample Card核准样卡86

6.5 Production Process生产程序90

 6.5.1 Production Process of Woven Wear梭织服装生产程序91

 6.5.2 Production Process of Cut & Sewn Knitted Wear裁剪型针织服装生产程序91

 6.5.3 Production Process of Fully Fashion Sweater全成型毛衫生产程序93

6.6 Garment manufacturing and Analyzing服装制作与分析96

 6.6.1 Analyzing of Men’s Shirt Making up男式衬衫制作分析96

 6.6.2 Trousers Construction Analyzing西裤结构分析98

 6.7 Prepare Production Order准备生产制造单100

 6.7.1 Contents of Production Order生产制造单的内容100

 6.7.2 Case Analysis of Production Order生产制造单案例分析101

Chapter 7 Apparel Quality Evaluation服装品质评估 106

7.1 Introduction简介106

7.2 Quality Inspection Criteria List 质量检验标准表106

 7.2.1 Physical Appearance Criteria外观标准107

 7.2.2 Workmanship Criteria工艺标准107

 7.2.3 Packing and Marking Criteria 包装与标识标准107

 7.2.4 Function Check功能性检查107

7.3 Garment Defects Classification服装疵点的分类108

 7.3.1 Defects Catalogues疵点分类108

 7.3.2 Defects Expression疵点的表达108

7.4 Types of Quality Inspections质量检验的类型110

 7.4.1 PreProduction Inspection前期检验110

 7.4.2 Inline Inspection中期检验110

 7.4.3 Final Inspection终期检验110

 7.4.4 AQL Random Sampling Inspection AQL随机抽样检验111

7.5 Visual Inspection Procedure of Garment服装目测检验程序112

 7.5.1 Review of the Technical File审查技术文件113

 7.5.2 Inspection Standard and Sampling检验标准与抽样113

 7.5.3 Carton Selection抽箱114

 7.5.4 Style Comparison对款114

 7.5.5 Hand feel of Material原料的手感114

 7.5.6 Color Comparison对色115

 7.5.7 Visual Workmanship Inspection外观工艺质量检验115

 7.6 Size Measurement尺寸测量115

7.6.1 Measurement Guidelines for Tops上装测量指引117

 7.6.2 Measurement Guidelines for Bottoms下装测量指引117

7.7 Reporting检查报告118

 7.7.1 Product Inspection Report产品检查报告118

 7.7.2 Defects Inspection Report疵点检查报告123

 7.7.3 Measurement Report尺寸检查报告125

7.8 Problem Settlement问题处理126

 7.8.1 Settlement with Discounts打折处理127

 7.8.2 Settlement with Claims索赔处理127

 7.8.3 Other Settlement其他处理方法127

Chapter 8 Goods Shipment and Document Processing产品装运与单证处理 131

8.1 Introduction简介131

 8.1.1 Shipment Clauses装运条件131

 8.1.2 Different Kinds of Shipment不同装运方式131

 8.1.3 General Process of Shipment装运的一般程序132

8.2 Following up the Goods Packing跟进产品包装132

8.3 Arranging the Shipment Time安排装运时间133

8.4 Confirming the Loading Ports确认装卸港口133

8.5 Selecting the Transportation Modes选择运输方式133

 8.5.1 Road Transportation公路运输134

 8.5.2 Railway Transportation铁路运输134

 8.5.3 Waterway Transportation水路运输134

 8.5.4 Air Transportation航空运输134

8.6 Collecting the Shipping Documents收集装运文件135

8.7 Shipping Advice装船通知135

 8.7.1 Shipping Advice under FOB离岸价下的装船通知135

 8.7.2 Shipping Advice under C&F 成本与运费下的装船通知136

 8.7.3 Shipping Advice under CIF到岸价下的装船通知136

8.8 Specimen Letters公函范本136

 8.8.1 Shipper’s Letter of Instruction托运通知书136

 8.8.2 Letters Case Analyze信函案例分析137

8.9 Document Practice in Trading贸易文件实践139

 8.9.1 Contract & Purchase Order合同与采购订单139

 8.9.2 Letter of Credit信用证141

 8.9.3 Commerce Invoice商业发票143

 8.9.4 Packing List包装单143

 8.9.5 Weight List重量单144

 8.9.6 Bill of Lading提货单145

 8.9.7 Bill of Exchange汇票146

 8.9.8 Shipping Advice装船通知147

 8.9.9 Insurance Policy保险单147

 8.9.10 Inspection Certificate检验证书150

 8.9.11 Certificate Origin原产地证书151

Appendix:Garment Vocabulary附录：服装词汇 155

Ⅰ. Fibre & Fabric纤维与面料155

Ⅱ. Accessory辅料158

Ⅲ. Garment Part服装部件160

Ⅳ. Garment Measurement尺寸量度部位163

Ⅴ. Garment Sample样板名称164

Ⅵ. Garment Wash洗水方法164

Ⅶ. QC Terms QC名词165

Ⅷ. Trading Terms贸易名词167

Ⅸ. Abbreviation词汇缩写169

Reference Books

参考文献 172